Reply With Quote1 litre = 0.26 gallons, so I can boil about 3 gallons, then I have to top up with over 3 gallons to get to my desired brew size. It really kills my hop utilization.
hahahah LitresOriginally Posted by Atomic Wedgy
how many gallons is that?
10 Keepers
10 Team, 10 Keeper
Head to Head: G,A,P,PPP,SHP,BS,FW,GAA,SV%,SO
Daily changes: 3C, 3LW, 3RW, 4D, 1Util, 2G
C: Malkin, Pavelski, Domi
LW: Gaudreau, Drouin
RW: Kessel, B. Ryan, Nyquist
D: Hedman
G: Holtby
Don't mistake opinion for fact.
1 litre = 0.26 gallons, so I can boil about 3 gallons, then I have to top up with over 3 gallons to get to my desired brew size. It really kills my hop utilization.
ITS BREW DAY! Dump and Chase IIPA. Yes... I'm banging together another IIPA. Biggest one I have tried so far. Estimated OG of 1.081. Its a conservative estimate too as I have calculated a 65% efficiency. 475g hops or 16.7oz are going into this 26L/6.8gal brew. It will be a hop bomb. My last beer was kinda normal, so I'm taking this one to outer space! Booyahhhh!!!!!!!!
http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/dump-and-chase-iipa
Last edited by Atomic Wedgy; August 11, 2013 at 7:48 AM.
Well, brew day started off really well. I nailed my mash temp on the first attempt - 152. It ended up 148, within the range that I was hoping. I do a brew in a bag in a cooler so, now I'm thinking about pulling the bag out so I can start the boil. Then I notice.... there's no bag in the cooler. Just grist and wort. **** me, I forgot to put the bag in there! hahahah. Great work. So I emptied out a big ice bin and put the bag in there, then transferred the grist and wort to the new container.
Not too bad, could have been worse if I didnt have something big enough to hold everything. Boil went well, its now chilling down to pitching temp. I realised that I broke my hydrometer so I dont know what the OG will be. Seeing as I hit and held my mash temps, there's no reason to think that my calculations would be too inaccurate.
I'll mark it down as 1.080. It is quite cold and windy out tonight, so that will really help with the chilling down. Good brew day. I'm now relaxing with a nice glass of wine, warming up to have a home brew. Life is really tough sometimes.
Last edited by Atomic Wedgy; August 11, 2013 at 7:51 AM.
I pitched at approximately 10pm and it was fermenting when I checked at 7am. Good stuff. The temperature in NZ at the moment is pretty much perfect for brewing an IPA. The brew will stay at about 60-65 the entire time without me doing anything other than cover it with a fleece after the krausen falls.
I'm not really sure why but I have an especially good feeling about this brew. I have high hopes.
Hey I tried going to your brewtoad but it says it doesn't exist!
10 Keepers
10 Team, 10 Keeper
Head to Head: G,A,P,PPP,SHP,BS,FW,GAA,SV%,SO
Daily changes: 3C, 3LW, 3RW, 4D, 1Util, 2G
C: Malkin, Pavelski, Domi
LW: Gaudreau, Drouin
RW: Kessel, B. Ryan, Nyquist
D: Hedman
G: Holtby
Don't mistake opinion for fact.
It's prolly still in draft status. I'll publish it today. Try again in about 4 hours.
Fixed. Try now.
My fermentation has taken off like a rocket ship. It started quickly, but slowly. About 48 hours after pitching, my air lock was getting clogged up with krausen. Great sign. I think a really good home for those yeast and they are quite happy as a result. Nothing more satisfying that a quick, healthy and vigorous fermentation. GO YEASTIES!!!!
I believe that I will be doing full boils soon. I dont think that i will get a wort chiller straight away tho. See how it goes without first.
36L SS boil kettle: $150
3 ring, cast iron burner: $70
Adjustable regulator: $40
Doesn't seem like a big expense when I write it down like that. I'm not sure why I didn't convince myself to do it before now.
Tried my hand at a really simple and cheap apple cider. Turned out with a way higher OG than I was hoping for. Prolly should have measured it before adding all of the sugar at once. It's a 1.060 so I'm looking at 8% if it stops there but it might not. There is a good chance it goes lower. It's still fermenting.
I might try a technique I've read about. Bottle when it's at the right abv and when the bottles are at the right carb level, drop the bottles into hot water to kill the yeast. Should be interesting. I've got about 20 litres so I'll do that with half and the other half I'll let ferment out. Interested to see the difference.
It's gonna sit for a few months so I'll keep whoever reads this updated.
Ok, I'm done with gear, honest.
Fridge installation with temperature controller and heater (for fermentation temperature control), as well as tap (for serving when fermentation isn't happening) = complete.
Currently serving that multidriver ale... gotta say that I'm totally enamoured with the style. Massive hops without bitterness. Amazing. I can understand that you don't see this type of thing commercially because the cost of the hops would really drive up the price, but people will pay for a taste they like. Yum.
AW, glad to see you're getting a bigger pot! Here I thought you were just going massively overboard with the hops in your IPAs, but of course it makes sense that you're just getting terrible utilization because of your dilution.
Yes, the pot will pay for itself over time. I'll use less hops and can stop buying LME cause I'll have room to boil everything.
That tap looks wicked! It'll be a while before I'll be able to convince the missus e need that setup. Awesome tho.
BTW... My last brew is still fermenting.... its the 16th day. Its definitely warm enough as it has been in my living room for the past 10 days or so. I can hear it bubble every 5 minutes or so. Can't believe its still going. I measured it at 1.016 on Monday. May as well wait until I dont hear it bubbling anymore tho right?
One thing I figured out I may have been doing wrong. I have been putting in the dry hops too soon. I've been waiting for the krausen to fall, but not until it stopped fermenting. I'm an impatient person, so I have always dry hopped after fermentation had slowed.
I read the other day that the suspended yeast will bind to hop oils, then when they drop, they take the oils with them. Opinion is divided tho as I have read others say that aroma and flavor also comes from the interaction of yeast and hop. Either way, I think its worthy of an experiment. next beer, I will wait until FG has been reached.
Airlock bubbling isn't always a good indication of activity... best to go with FG measurements.
I generally stagger my dry hops... and you can definitely notice how they change over the first few weeks while your beer bottle conditions. If you've got high alcohol beer, it can sometimes take eons for the bottles to carb up nicely, and by then much of the hop aroma has faded.
Solution? Kegs and forced carb. Just saying.
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